More things you should know (about Taiwan)

At the top of my blog right now there is an ad, "Urination cone for women." That's what I get for writing about toilets, I guess.

As you may have guessed, last time's short list didn't cover everything.


So, without further ado...

大

That's the character for 'big'. It's said, "da", with a descending tone. Not condescending. Descending. You know the way you speak? Most of you probably start a sentence off at a higher pitch, then get lower as you come to the end. Think of going from that high pitch to the lower, finishing pitch, but in one sound/word.

It looks like a guy with his arms spread really wide, doesn't it?
It's good to know.

小

That's 'small'. It's said something like (shiao), with a descending, then rising tone. Do the falling tone, like for the last character, then think of the way you end a question. You know the way your pitch goes up? Do that right after the falling tone. It's all done on that one little word.


It's good to know those two characters. When you go to order food, the server might ask you whether you want a large or small order, or they might be listed on the menu.
Also, you could recognize the name of my school, which is 台大 (台 is short for 台灣 - that's Taiwan, and 大 is short for 大學 - literally, big school/learning).

And yes, the tones do matter. If you say da with the falling, rising pitch that's used in 小, it means "hit", "punch", "fight", or play. So probably, you don't want to say that. If someone asks what you want, and you tell them you want a punch, what do you think might happen? heheh.
And if you say 小 with the falling pitch, it could mean "smile", or "laugh". Getting either of those is better than a punch, but it will not get you food, or clothing, or whatever else might have different sizes.




Alright, that's enough characters for now. You probably think they're a headache. You're right. They are. Those are simple ones.


One thing you will notice right away - people here do not want to get tan. At all. Girls walk under umbrellas when the sun's out (or when it's raining. About the only time they don't use an umbrella is when it's cloudy; probably half the time). People do not go to the beach to tan. (Actually, they don't go to swim, either. So I'm not sure why they go to the beach. But they sure do! Beaches are crowded on weekends.)
Stores are full of whitening agents. So for those of you like me, that is, ghostly pale, you will be greatly envied. If you're a woman, you can probably get a modeling job here.

It's not that they want to look like white people. Not at all! No, it's here like it was everywhere else in the old days - having a tan means you're poor. Farmers are poor. Farmers are out in the sun all day, as are almost all other manual laborers. They're all poor, and they all have tans. Only people who can afford to stay inside are pale. I assume this will change in time, but for now, pale is sexy. Enjoy it while it lasts!


Not a very nice segue at all, but the next thing you'll notice is trash. Actually, it's probably the second thing you'll notice here, after toilets.
First: one might be inclined to ask, "WHERE THE HELL IS THE TRASH CAN?" Or, if you're more patient/polite, you will simply carry your trash around in your hand or pocket for the better part of the day. It's hard to find trash cans. I asked someone why that was, and the explanation I got was,
"So that people don't throw trash all over the place."
Yeah.

When you do find a trash can, there will be recycling next to it. Notice I did not say, "there will be a recycling can next to it." No, there is unfortunately no singular form for recycling can in this country. There are always at least four separate kinds of bins for recyclables. Good luck figuring them out.

One last thing that you'll wish you didn't notice: trash trucks are musical. You see, Taiwan has not yet invented or imported the dumpster. The concept of a large garbage container apparently eludes the best and brightest of Taiwan. So, that means you have to hold onto your garbage until the trash truck shows up. You run out to it, hurl your garbage into it, then go home. It's like watching the stupidest ambush, except that no one is excited.
Oh, and all that sorting of recyclables you did? They all go in the same truck. But it's required by law that you separate them.
And the trucks all play "Für Elise". Not even the whole thing, either. Just the start. Over and over. You can hear its biting, electro-chiming barbs floating across the city everywhere you go.
I'd say I can't stand the tune now...but...check this out!


Gotta admit, that's pretty cool.


That's it for now!

Things you should know

Should you choose to come to Taiwan, there are many things that either you had best know already, or that you will learn.

• Chopsticks. You will use them.

While Taiwan is a very modern country in many ways, people still insist on putting sticks in their mouths. I suppose everyone keeps some old habits.
Forks and knives are sometimes available, depending on the restaurant. If you go to an actual sit-down restaurant, they very well may have silverware available. Don't count on it, as this is only a possibility. If you visit a food-vendor's stall, or someone's home... you have two realistic choices: use those sticks, or find a way to eat with your hands that doesn't look too barbaric (or get you too greasy). Or you can eat like a dog, I suppose, though your host may not be impressed. (Side note: from what I understand, some of the older folks, especially the mainlanders, still think of all non-Chinese as barbarians. Jokingly. But not that jokingly.)

• Toilets. You may be surprised.

Again, while Taiwan is a modern country in many ways, there apparently is some fondness for squatting over a hole in the ground; this is expressed in modern commode design. In a concession to modernity, they now have ceramic holes in the ground, complete with flushable water, and a splash guard. You do not sit on them, you squat over them. The upside is you never have to touch another filthy toilet again. That is a rather major advantage. There's no downside, unless you have bad balance, and then the downside is where your hand goes. There are sit-down toilets in many modern bathrooms, like in the MRT stations and nicer shopping areas; some are even aggressively modern and have a bewildering assortment of buttons and options - these are imports from Japan. I have no idea what the buttons do, aside from the heater, the bidet function, and what looks to possibly be a service bell.

• Toilet Paper - more confusing than you think.

Since we're on the subject already: upon entering the bathroom, you will notice that it smells worse than what you're used to (well, most of you). And, should you enter a stall, you will notice a small trash can. This is not where you put your old coffee cups and food wrappers. No. It's a sort of paper that comes into contact with ...post-processed food, shall we say, when you're on the....

Yes, they have signs and everything. "Please do not flush toilet paper." They warn of all sorts of dire consequences. Or they'll anthropomorphize the toilet and it'll be saying something like, "PLEASE DON'T FEED ME TOILET PAPER, I WILL VOMIT."
Maybe I exaggerate. But not by much.

• Toilet paper. No, of course we're not done.

I should also mention that bathrooms often have no paper whatsoever, unless you count the ones that have thoughtfully been pre-moistened and pre-tested for you. (I suppose if you wanted to be clever you could substitute a three-letter word that rhymes with "pre-"). You can find those in the can. However, for those of us who are not fond of strange people's bodily functions (or even those we know well - perhaps they are worse, in some ways), you must bring your own tissue. Fortunately, nearly everyone carries some with them; it comes in little pocket-sized packets. It's ubiquitous. Hucksters and advertisers of all sorts will hand out free packets of tissue as you pass by, especially in election season. They are not pointing out your poor hygiene. No, those packets all have pictures and ads on them. They travel with you everywhere, for quite some time, so you do have a better chance of remembering them. However, you also tend to associate those politicians or products with something that rap has been accused of being (and with which it even rhymes!), and I'm not sure that's...productive. (Side note: if you sweat a lot, people will offer you some of their tissues. They also wipe tables with them.)

• English. Oh, the fond memories.

If you are familiar with English, if you think of it fondly, or at least dislike it only a little, you may enjoy reading the English in the local environment. I'm sure most of you have heard of "Engrish". If not - it's what happens when the rest of the world tries to use our language. The Japanese are apparently the worst and most serious offenders, but the Chinese are giving them a serious run for the money. Sometimes it's simple, but odd, matters of word choice - archaic words are a favorite. For example, when you ride the MRT, you will hear: "when you alight, please heed the platform gap." To my knowledge, I had never before heard someone actually say that word. At least not in that sense. Other times it's a matter of mis-spelled words that accidentally spell something funny. Other times it's just...odd. At home, we can buy a Corvette, or a Camero, or something like that, right? People ride scooters here. This here's a scooter town. So, naturally, there are many makes and models of scooters. One of my favorites is the model called, simply, "Heroism." I had never thought it possible before to ride a concept to death. But someone has found a way. Oh, and speaking of death -

• Traffic. Better than third world countries.

Scooters are popular, as I mentioned. Sometimes it's the only transportation a person, or family, has, and I can report that yes, it is indeed possible to fit an entire family - Mom, Dad, brother, sister, baby, and the dog, on one scooter. When I say scooter, you, like I did, probably think of some puttering mis-begotten motorcycle. That may have been accurate once. But I know, from personal experience, that they can generally attain 50mph fairly easily. You are not strapped in, of course, though they recently passed a law here requiring all riders to wear helmets, which I've heard is helping.
Anyway, there are swarms of scooters. They buzz about everywhere, weaving. There are also a fair number of cars, trucks, busses, and etc. Many of them are, like the scooters, not especially careful. And that brings us to -

• Taxi drivers.
  

They want you to die.

I don't think they care one way or another whether they get paid first; they probably would prefer you dead before you arrive, since in that case they can take all the money off your corpse. They will ignore all rules of traffic whensoever the whim strikes them. Red lights, blind alleys, blind turns, steep mountains, canyons - these are merely obstacles, and ones deserving only contempt. Never tell them you are in a hurry; they will take this as an invitation to show off their car-chase skills, in addition of course to their general disregard or outright disdain for human life and safety. If ever you want to make a cheap car-chase movie, this is where you'll do it. Just...you wouldn't be riding in it yourself, of course. That's what actors are for.
Oh, I got sidetracked for a moment - I forgot to mention that for aesthetic reasons, all taxis have their seatbelts jammed somewhere inside the seat. If you search, you will not find. Just give up. You're going to die anyway, might as well be in a taxi, going somewhere.

On the positive side, they are relatively talkative and even somewhat friendly, which makes their fierce disregard for life somewhat...jarring. Also, fares are cheap, compared to most places I've been to.
And finally, regarding your well-being, we have:

• Medicine. Better than you thought.

If you're only taking a short trip, let's hope you don't get sick. After all, you can get sick anywhere, why try it somewhere new? However, if you're here a little longer, something is bound to happen, and when it does, you're in luck. Taiwan has a good medical system. True, they don't always have the very latest surgical techniques or equipment, but they are more than competent in what they do have. I'm totally uneducated, and the wrong person to make this sort of assessment, but I'm here, and I'd guess Taiwan's medical system is just 5-10 years behind ours in general. Anyway, going to the doctor here is very cheap. If you go without insurance, the fees may approach what you'd pay in the US for minor things. But if you have the national insurance, or are a student, you are in great luck. For example, we have a clinic on campus. Before I had insurance, a trip to the doctor cost $90 NT ($3 US!). Medicine was extra, but generally only cost another $2-300 NT. Now that I have insurance, it's only $50 (~$1.70 US!) to see the doctor, and medicine is included. I went to the emergency room a few weeks ago for reasons I already wrote about, and that only cost me about $600 (or $700?) NT - less than $20 US. Not bad.
I hear some people come here just to have surgery done - it's like Mexico, but better. And friendlier.

Anyway, that's about enough for now. There's plenty more to talk about, and maybe I will soon. 再見!